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maandag 24 september 2012

Metropoliten - Amazing Perfume Store in exotic Belgrade - Serbia


I write about perfume stores in the Netherlands. And sometimes I review perfumes on exotic locations. As a Dutch guy I use to have the idea that you cannot buy perfumes in exotic places. You can buy herbs, spices and perfumes that come from exotic places. And we make perfumes of those and use them here, in Western Europe. I had never expected to find an amazing perfume store on locations that I consider kind of exotic.


Central Town

Belgrade is an exotic place to me. Serbia has one of the best food of the world. I can tell since my girlfriend is from Serbia. People are beautiful. Not a country without problems, but that for a big deal has to my opinion, to do with the almost uninhibited character of the people. They have been in war situations, and are not used to a fair justice system. It's in some way everyone for oneself. 


The Fortress

I visited Belgrade in the beginning of September for a music performance by my girlfriend. When practicing her arias, I use the time to explore on foot this nice City Centre with the Fortress and the nice Neo-Classical buildings and fountains that you can visit in September while it's still summer (25 C) and found this amazing perfume store with the name Metropoliten.

Beautiful interior

Metropoliten is like a candy store for perfume lovers. They have a huge collection of nice perfumes. And some prices are lower than over here in the Netherlands. Some are more expensive, depending on custom’s regulations. The food, the atmosphere, the temperature, the beautiful people combined with the nice weather and of course this perfume store makes the cheap Wizz air ticket from Eindhoven (only around 120 Euros for a return ticket) worth every penny. 
Nice collection
Looking around in that store you want to stay there or return there every day to at least try all the perfumes you can. The service is nice, friendly and polite. To standards in the Netherlands, it is an exception. In Serbia it is normal. They treat you like a king in Metropoliten. 


The Central Belgrade Store
I got into contact with the owner Milan Žunić and asked him some questions about this amazing store. 

When did Metropoliten open?

5 years ago, we opened our first shop at Zmaj Jovina Street in the center of Belgrade. Now we have 2 shops, but we think aboutl closing the old one.

What was the first brand you started with? 

We started with Comptoir Sud Pacifique, a brand in between regular and niche fragrances. After that, we introduced Robert Piguet, Frapin, Empire and Juliette Has a Gun, and later Mona di Orio, escentric Molecules, état Libre d'orange, etc ...


The Flagshipstore
Are you going to have more brands in future (Tom Ford, English frags like Penhaligons or Floris)? 

We will have more brands, but not those ones you mentioned. In October we will introduce Nobile 1942 brand in Metropoliten, we are thinking about a I hate perfume brand. We also want to introduce more fragrance candles in our shop, but it is not easy, customers still have not the habits to use candles, ...

Will you do international shipping? 

Serbia is not part of EU, so for every delivery outside we need to have a custom clearance, and with transport costs added is will almost double the regular price. So, for now, it is not possible.


Etat Libre d'Orange
Are niche perfumes getting more popular in Serbia? 

Yes, but too slowly; it is a pity, not only for business and profit purposes, but also, because in general the population like the more famous fragrances, and is afraid to try something new and different. And a lot of people that understand the difference between regular and niche perfumes, unfortunately have no money to buy.

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Fountain at the Centre

My trip to Belgrade comes to an end after a great performance of Ksenija that was broadcasted on National Radio. I realize how special this store is. I understand their idea to concentrate on one exclusive store that has it all. It's a great store and if you are looking for a nice trip to some great destination for less money - go to Belgrade. You will not regret it. 


At the Fortress
The perfumes I purchased at Metropoliten are Ambre Sultan by d'Empire and Douglas Hannant by Robert Piguet.

 Two amazing perfumes from Metropoliten Belgrade Serbia
Some of the Brands*:

* Blood Concept
* Boadicea the Victorious
* Bond No 9
* By Redo
* Carthusia
* Comme de Garçons
* Costes
* Eau d Italie
* Escentric Molecules
* Etat Libre d Orange
* Frapin, Perfume d Ampire
* Juliette Has a Gun
* Robert Piguet
* Mona di Orio
* Nassomatto 
* Nobile 1942
* Parfum de Rosine
* Kinski


* Many more - check out the website: KUPOVINA PO BRANDOVIMA


Guerlain Connoisseur of Colognes Massaniello Bogaert - meeting at Douglas The Hague


Douglas The Hague is one of the better perfume stores in the Netherlands. The assortment is slowly growing into more quality (even some Tom Fords & Armani exclusives) and besides,  the Utrecht store is probably getting a Chanel special department. Douglas The Hague has the amazing inside Guerlain exclusive store. And hanging around there I got intrigued by everything that has to do with this amazing perfume House.

Patricia and her colleagues from Douglas The Hague are very kind with samples, which gave me the opportunity to test Guerlain fragrances al year round. It lead to Guerlain fragrances in my collection since I could not resist Habit Rouge that I love to wear on fresh days in between summer and fall when the air is a bit crispy. The scent is at it's best when the French yachting season opens. The other, L'instant de Guerlain Pour Homme Extreme is my favorite fall fragrance for every day.


My favorite Guerlain fall fragrances
For summer I like my Guerlain - Cologne du Parfumeur; see my top 5 summer fragrances review.

So, just back from that beautiful (music, food & fragrances) week in Belgrade I was ready to meet perfume connoisseur Bogaert, who was going to test me in relation to the Guerlain perfumes & to what would fit me best at that moment. Patricia invited me for a tête-à-tête meeting with Guerlain's training manager for Benelux, Masaniello Bogaert. 

Massaniello Bogaert

Connoisseur Bogaert is a real gentleman who is used to advice VIP's personally. He has a lot of patience and knows a lot about perfumes. 

Bogaert started with a test based on my associations with images from all kinds of atmospheres. He asked about my cooking preferences, about ingredients, wines and grapes. He tested me on all kinds of raw, rough and smelling materials such as real white musk and ambergris. All sorts of tests with scents “thatlead him to a clear picture of my preferences”( from which for him of everything became clear). I e.g. don't like musk nor aldahyden, unless it is used in a very refined way.
A complex flavor, but clear. Preference for fresh, clear chypre with occasional need for warmth, but not purely Oriental and not spicy. Yet with elements there. And, in fact, need for a fresh new molecule; available in the near future. Exciting.

My body smell is according to him equal to the smell he shows me (that you see here). And thatt is so true, because I can smell myself. The bergamot and the bitter oranges II
I find delicious. Together with leather smells, and with a very light flowers, pepper and cardamom smell. And also the special pachouli, sandalwood and the always nice bit of  frankincense. Not heavy, as for me it fits.

And if I am in need of some warm feeling, it is a few drops on the wrists of Songe d'un Bois d'Ete that gives a deeper accent for the jasmine, the cedar, the saffron, the old and myrrh.

Yet there are moments as well in which there is room for Encens Mythique D'Orient in which the aldahyden for me works well combined with the neroli, the mosses, the saffron, a beautiful Persian rose, the musk and in this case (Yes Yes) genuine ambergris from (New Zealand) whales (that have matured for more than a year).

Femke, who joined me had a lively conversation with mr. Bogaert too. He was surprised that she could already smell so many different scents (she started with only smelling flowers, but now she know differences between roses, orange blossoms and others scents). That’s already really good, he says. 

Humans are able to distinguish between around 10.000 scents max. Noses are trained to be able to smell more than most people can. When kids start young to develop this art, they will become better and better at it. Continue with that Femke, he says. We need that kind of people. 
The last Guerlain went into banking. But the youngest generation is enthusiastic about perfumes. Femke gets a little shy when Bogaert presents her with some sweets with special scents. We continue taking about perfumes, pure soaps and opera since his family name is related to opera. (and I just came back from a performance by my soprano love in Belgrade Serbia).

It was nice and inspirational to meet with Massaniello Bogaert. Out of this meeting I decided to purchase 3 fragrances. I started with Arsene - Lupin Dandy which fit very well to my body chemistry. With a personal engraving we ended this beautiful day at Guerlain. 

Arsene - Lupin with Geurenland engraving
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One week after the meeting

That week I kept my twoo Guerlain hand fans in the garderobe.
One for Encens Mythique D'Orient and one (with) for Songe d'un Bois d'Ete. Both from the Orient line.
I happily bought Songe d'un Bois d'Été one week later again, which fits so well for the coming winter. And I need that warm drop sometimes. Encens Mythique D'Orient will follow later, very feminine, but as soon as the fan fragrance starts to go away I want to smell this ambergris depth again, someday..


Songe d'un Bois d'Ete 


zaterdag 22 september 2012

Meet with Creed at Skins Cosmetics Amsterdam


Last week I received an invitation from Skin Cosmetics in Amsterdam for a meeting with Erwin Creed. Since I'm a big fan of English colognes and Creed perfumes I was delighted. I reviewed Creed perfumes on Youtube Geurenland Channel. While reviewing you start  questioning. With the opportunity to meet Erwin and asking him questions personally  is the best one can get. But let me first give you a very short introduction to the House of Creed. 
Erwin Creed, Femke & me at Skins Cosmetics Amsterdam
CREED is a perfume house with its origin in London, and for two generations now also based in Paris, France. Creed makes English 'colognes' and is one of the oldest perfume houses in the world. 

James Henry Creed founded the House of Creed in London in 1760. Yhe House became famous in the mid 19th century under Henry Creed, for he delivered to Count d'Orsay, Queen Victoria, and Empress Eugénie, who then rewarded the firm Creed & Cumberland a Royal Warrant for tailoring articles. Nowadays the House is a pure perfume house with two perfumers: father and son. They create beautiful perfumes. 
Olivier Creed (who is credited for Green Irish Tweed, Millesime Imperial, Silver Mountain Water and Aventus among others) and his son Erwin Creed who created Original Vetiver with his father. One can call Erwin Creed the 'Crown prince' of the company. 
An impression about Erwin Creed as a person. Erwin Creed at 31 is of the seventh  generation in a famous perfume family and one is aware of that. 

When you approach Erwin he gives you that feeling of a prince from a royal family. Somewhat like walking into 'The family of Charles V' the Goya painting at the Prado museum in Madrid (portrait of the family of King Charles IV). You are feeling culture and history here. A bit reserved at first, he becomes curious, open minded and enthusiastic as soon as he decides that you are really interested in perfumes. He immediately noticed my Songe D'un Bois D'ete / Arsene that I was wearing. So he must have a great nose.

My questions to Erwin Creed

Do you consider Creed perfumes French or English?

Erwin
The Creed fragrances are made from English tradition. I think English colognes are better than France. They have that freshness. And we want to keep it like that. If you smell Oud for instance, it's not pure oriental. It's still English and fresh. And yes, I'm French, I'm born in France, Paris. My father was born in Nice. I live in Geneva. But we have strong connection with the UK since our family is from there. 

Do you use natural, raw materials in the fragrances like real Ambergris in Original Vetiver, that you have designed with your father?  

Erwin
We use raw materials where possible in all our fragrances. But we are aware of environmental aspects. For Ambergris, we don't want wales to be killed (what actually happens) so we use a material that is almost the same. You will not smell any difference.

What fragrances you wear yourself beside Creed and what is a nice Creed for me for fall you think? 

Erwin
You develop your senses by trying different scents. I wear and use every different perfume, male and female. I'm interested to try almost every perfume. While smelling perfume I'm wearing, Erwin reaches out for Original Santal. Santal would be nice. It's warm and fits to the atmosphere. Than we smell Oud and finally he reaches out for Spice & Wood. We smell all of them. I feel comfortable with his advices and so is he.
I thought Creeds were more for summer fragrances, but they have scents that fit great to the fall and to winter too. 

Meanwhile, he talks with my daughter Femke and they both agree that Spring Flower will be her first Creed perfume. Young girls like this fragrance with its pink bottle. It's nice your daughter is interested in perfumes. 5 year old Femke telling Erwin Creed that Rose is here favorite scent. When I have a daughter she will be interested in perfumes too I'm sure,  he says with a grin on his face. 

My last question is, how do you see the future of the Creed house? Can you give us some idea about your future plans?

Erwin
I will continue in the way we are going for generations. I point to the fact that some fragrances have note names such as Vetiver or Oud, but some wear fantasy names like Green Irish Tweed, or AventusYes, we change some things some times. In the future, we will make new fragrances of course (a new fresh floral perfume will be introduced soon).  I'm also thinking about making bigger sized bottles. People like that nowadays. So maybe we will do other sizes for our bottles in future. 

I tell Erwin about my addiction to AventusGreen Irish Tweed and Silver Mountain Water. And that I think Silver Mountain Water really smells like wind over a glacier. And like crispy snow in the air.... I see a twinkling in Erwin's eyes. Yes, I agree he says, it's that dry air and that what you described. (Meanwhile we start to speak French). I tell him that I went skiing with Femke. Oh yes,  I LOVE skiing, he saysAnd start to talk passionately about skiing.


My first Creed fragrances

I could talk for hours with Erwin. I thank him for this nice conversation and wish him a safe trip home by TGV back to Paris. I also thank Skins Cosmetics’ owner Philip Hillige and marketing manager Suzanne Klokke - van Dijk for making this intervieuw possible. I tell them that I have to bring Femke to her swimming lessons. Yes, Femke says, I have to learn this 'fish tale', so I can swim with daddy. Some things are just more important than perfumes. Than we run back to the car and head for the swimming pool where Femke shows me her fish tale position. While Femke is practicing, I think back about this pleasant meeting with Creed.


My latest Creed classics

Fragrances from the House of CREED

  • 2000 Fleurs
  • Acier Aluminium
  • Acqua Fiorentina
  • Ambre Cannelle
  • Aventus
  • Baie De Genievre
  • Bois De Cedrat
  • Bois Du Portugal
  • Chevrefeuille
  • Citrus Bigarrade
  • Epicea
  • Erolfa
  • Fantasia De Fleurs
  • Fleur De Thé Rose Bulgare
  • Fleurissimo
  • Fleurs De Bulgarie
  • Green Irish Tweed
  • Green Valley
  • Himalaya
  • Imperial Millesime
  • Irisia
  • Jardin D'Amalfi
  • Jasmal
  • Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie
  • Les Floralies
  • Love In Black
  • Love In White
  • Neroli Sauvage
  • Orange Spice
  • Original Santal
  • Original Vetiver
  • Private Collection Tabarome
  • Royal Delight
  • Royal English Leather
  • Royal-Oud
  • Royal Scottish Lavender
  • Royal Water
  • Santal Imperial
  • Selection Verte
  • Silver Mountain Water
  • Spring Flower
  • Sublime Vanille
  • Tabarome Millesime
  • Tubereuse Indiana
  • Vanisia
  • Vetiver
  • Virgin Island Water
  • Windsor
  • Zeste Mandarine Pamplemousse

zondag 2 september 2012

At Skins Cosmetics Amsterdam - the 'mother' of all Skins perfume stores in the Netherlands (& Las Vegas-USA)


Geurenland