Pagina's

vrijdag 17 mei 2013


ParfuMaria is a Niche Perfume Store in the centre of Holland. I've been reviewing  perfumes on Youtube for about a year now. I sometimes I focus on fragrances under de radar. I tried to review some unique and sometimes 'one of a kind' under de radar perfume stores too. It doesn't mean they don't have great perfumes. No, it is because they are on some special location or work from a concept and you have to know them. There unique and you may want to check them out if your into or want to go into great niche perfumes. They might have the best perfumes, you even didn't know about.

An example is ParfuMaria in IJsselstein. Located in a small village south of Utrecht (more like a suburb) in the centre of Holland in a somehow industrial area, you wouldn't expect a perfume store there.

Located in a multifunctional building. Maria's husband runs a business in the back of the building. They live in winter in the Penthouse of the building. In summer near the river. And the perfume store is on the first floor. You cannot just walk in, but have to make an appointment to visit the store. You already feel this is special and you ask yourself, how can she manage? What is the concept?

But lets first talk a little bit about the ParfuMaria collection of fragrances. ParfuMaria has over 100 niche Brands in Stock. And a great website to order from.

One of the fragrances is Eight & Bob. A fragrance - with a history - that I never saw in any other niche store in the Holland. The history is described as follows:

Albert Fouquet, the son of a Parisian aristocrat, was part of the elite French society of the early twentieth century and a perfume connoisseur. Fouquet created and perfected various essences for his own personal use aided by Philippe, the family butler. Fouquet continually rejected proposals to market his fragrance.

One night during his summer vacation in 1937 on the French Riviera (Cote d’Azur), Albert got on very well with a young American student who was touring France in a convertible: John F. Kennedy. Kennedy’s charm and congeniality persuaded Albert to leave him a sample of his cologne. On returning from his vacation, Albert received a letter from Kennedy in the U.S. thanking him for the kind gesture and informing him of the success his perfume was enjoying among his friends. He requested that Albert send him eight samples, “and if your production allows, another one for Bob.”

Without fully understanding the request, Albert decided to send a box with enough extra samples to offset the transport costs. He didn’t fill the order until Philippe finally found some beautiful glass jars in a Parisian pharmacy. Albert considered them suitable for his cologne and labeled them with John's amusing request: "Eight & Bob."

Albert couldn't believe it a few months later when he began receiving letters from the U.S. with requests from various Hollywood directors, producers and actors such as Cary Grant and James Stewart. Everyone wanted the "Eight & Bob" cologne they had apparently discovered through Joseph Kennedy, John's father.

In the spring of 1939, Albert died in an automobile accident near Biarritz (France). Philippe, the only person who could handle the orders, would only continue with that work for a few months longer, since the start of World War II forced him to leave his job with the Fouquet family. In the last shipments he sent, Philippe hid the bottles inside books that he carefully cut by hand to prevent the Nazis from seizing the perfume.

Decades later, thanks to the family of Philippe the butler, the formula for “Eight & BobB” has been completely recovered, along with its carefully crafted production process. Once again, it has become one of the most exclusive colognes, preferred by the world’s most elegant men.

The main note of Eight & Bob is a closely-held secret. The fragrance is based on a rare aromatic plant from Chile. In January 1934 Albert Fouquet traveled to Chile and returned to Paris with several sprigs of a plant he called "Andrea." Andrea is a wild plant in short supply due to the altitude and the limited area where it grows; it can only be picked during the months of December and January. The total plants gathered undergo a very exacting selection process of which only 7% are chosen. This process ends between March and April and it is only then that one knows the how many units of Eight & Bob can be bottled.


Part of the ParfuMaria store



This kind of stories make me curious. And ParfuMaria has more curious making fragrances. Just check out the perfumes on the bottom of this article. And what is the secret of ParfuMaria? How does she do it?

From childhood Maria is addicted to perfumes. Visiting people with her mom, she sneaked into rooms to smell perfumes. She bought her first fragrance (Mitsouko) when she was twelfth. And soon she started saving for Shalimar and then came Charlie and much more. At one point she had saved a lot of odors (over 700) and her mind got kind of encyclopedia of fragrances that she already knew all. The first niche perfume that really cached her nose was Annick Goutal's (2005) Songes (a romantic fragrant poem, rich and soft fragrance based on luminous jasmine note).


Maria has a vast knowledge of owning stores. She was working in the cloth business, owning many stores. She also was responsible for one of the first Rituals (in Utrecht). At one point she decided to radically change from owning all this stores with lots of responsibility and problems to just learning about niche perfumes and work with people who know everything about it. After all the research and with help form others she finally started her salon some years ago.

Because Maria is a very spontaneous woman who makes contact very easy and likes to tell about her passion for perfumes, she can make people curious and let them discover new fragrances. She tests fragrances when she goes to bed herself. And she uses different fragrances every day. Just depending on her mood. It seems like an adventure for her every day. And she can advice you because she did all the testing herself.  

She does free perfume consults. You can just send her a message and she will take time (up to 1,5 hour) just for you to find the right perfume that fits you. That is a great service and so different from walking into a perfume store where people seem to decide in less than 30 minutes without any knowledge about niche perfumes. Because she has such a big collection you can also just go to discover new fragrances.

After that she might ask you to order the fragrance on the website, so your in the system. One of her strongest points is her delivering service. Your order she will ship directly. You don't have to wait very long on your beloved fragrance.

When you want something new, just make a new appointment and let your perfume wardrobe grow slowly with some gorgeous fragrances.

Dorin - Un Air d'Amour

Beautiful Nicolai fragrances that where quite new to me

Maria's strength is not only her great collection and great service but also her power to let you smell something you didn't smell before. Because she likes to smell it all herself. 

So if your ready for a new experience make an appointment to smell fragrances.

Unique Jovoy fragrances



ParfuMaria's Brands

ParfuMaria
Tinbergenlaan 5,
3401MT IJsselstein
Holland
info@parfumaria.com

(send a mail if your interested)



maandag 24 december 2012

Nederveen Cosmetics - Enschede






Nederveen Cosmetics Enschede  is an amazing perfume store in the city of Enschede. Located in the eastern part of the Netherlands. I place not around the corner for me. But they serve a part of the Netherlands. With their web-shop there are no limits any more. Generous people, willing to give free samples when you visit them. They carry some special brands that no one has in the Netherlands. Like the exotic Shaik perfumes from Bahrein. Or if you want to try Creed's Green Valley, you have to be at Nederveen Cosmetics. 

Inside the store

My first contact with the store was Stella Deiana, who writes about perfumes that Nederveen Cosmetics is selling. The owner of Nederveen Cosmetics is a creative salesman. He has been well known in the world of fashion for years and able to combine knowledge to advise people on a higher lifestyle level. To my opinion Nederveen Cosmetics goes off the beaten track. Able to think out of the box. Because they work with direct sources for their luxury goods, to serve you. 

I spoke to the owner and he told me about his passion for perfumes. The philosophy of the business is to have an informal atmosphere where people can be themselves. If you want you can even smoke in the store, it is fine. When I entered the music was a little too loud for a perfume store, but not disturbing. That’s how they work. Drinks are served. It feels like being at home. Besides all this, Nederveen Cosmetics organizes fancy meetings between people and is able to make connections in a nice atmosphere.
How Nederveen Cosmetics characterize themselves:
At Nederveen Cosmetics we think beyond the product, we will give you a total experience when you come to our perfumery. 
Testing some amazing fragrances

At Nederveen Cosmetics they know what they do. But still the owner approaches his love for perfumes and other luxury goods like a hobby. He works intuitively. Always on the move to approve the quality of products. You can feel the love and passion for quality in everyone working at Nederveen Cosmetics. But if you want you can also purchase perfumes at their professional web-shop. If you  have a chance to visit this store dear perfume lovers, do it. It's a joy.
The brands Nederveen Cosmetics carries are:




maandag 24 september 2012

Metropoliten - Amazing Perfume Store in exotic Belgrade - Serbia


I write about perfume stores in the Netherlands. And sometimes I review perfumes on exotic locations. As a Dutch guy I use to have the idea that you cannot buy perfumes in exotic places. You can buy herbs, spices and perfumes that come from exotic places. And we make perfumes of those and use them here, in Western Europe. I had never expected to find an amazing perfume store on locations that I consider kind of exotic.


Central Town

Belgrade is an exotic place to me. Serbia has one of the best food of the world. I can tell since my girlfriend is from Serbia. People are beautiful. Not a country without problems, but that for a big deal has to my opinion, to do with the almost uninhibited character of the people. They have been in war situations, and are not used to a fair justice system. It's in some way everyone for oneself. 


The Fortress

I visited Belgrade in the beginning of September for a music performance by my girlfriend. When practicing her arias, I use the time to explore on foot this nice City Centre with the Fortress and the nice Neo-Classical buildings and fountains that you can visit in September while it's still summer (25 C) and found this amazing perfume store with the name Metropoliten.

Beautiful interior

Metropoliten is like a candy store for perfume lovers. They have a huge collection of nice perfumes. And some prices are lower than over here in the Netherlands. Some are more expensive, depending on custom’s regulations. The food, the atmosphere, the temperature, the beautiful people combined with the nice weather and of course this perfume store makes the cheap Wizz air ticket from Eindhoven (only around 120 Euros for a return ticket) worth every penny. 
Nice collection
Looking around in that store you want to stay there or return there every day to at least try all the perfumes you can. The service is nice, friendly and polite. To standards in the Netherlands, it is an exception. In Serbia it is normal. They treat you like a king in Metropoliten. 


The Central Belgrade Store
I got into contact with the owner Milan Žunić and asked him some questions about this amazing store. 

When did Metropoliten open?

5 years ago, we opened our first shop at Zmaj Jovina Street in the center of Belgrade. Now we have 2 shops, but we think aboutl closing the old one.

What was the first brand you started with? 

We started with Comptoir Sud Pacifique, a brand in between regular and niche fragrances. After that, we introduced Robert Piguet, Frapin, Empire and Juliette Has a Gun, and later Mona di Orio, escentric Molecules, état Libre d'orange, etc ...


The Flagshipstore
Are you going to have more brands in future (Tom Ford, English frags like Penhaligons or Floris)? 

We will have more brands, but not those ones you mentioned. In October we will introduce Nobile 1942 brand in Metropoliten, we are thinking about a I hate perfume brand. We also want to introduce more fragrance candles in our shop, but it is not easy, customers still have not the habits to use candles, ...

Will you do international shipping? 

Serbia is not part of EU, so for every delivery outside we need to have a custom clearance, and with transport costs added is will almost double the regular price. So, for now, it is not possible.


Etat Libre d'Orange
Are niche perfumes getting more popular in Serbia? 

Yes, but too slowly; it is a pity, not only for business and profit purposes, but also, because in general the population like the more famous fragrances, and is afraid to try something new and different. And a lot of people that understand the difference between regular and niche perfumes, unfortunately have no money to buy.

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Fountain at the Centre

My trip to Belgrade comes to an end after a great performance of Ksenija that was broadcasted on National Radio. I realize how special this store is. I understand their idea to concentrate on one exclusive store that has it all. It's a great store and if you are looking for a nice trip to some great destination for less money - go to Belgrade. You will not regret it. 


At the Fortress
The perfumes I purchased at Metropoliten are Ambre Sultan by d'Empire and Douglas Hannant by Robert Piguet.

 Two amazing perfumes from Metropoliten Belgrade Serbia
Some of the Brands*:

* Blood Concept
* Boadicea the Victorious
* Bond No 9
* By Redo
* Carthusia
* Comme de Garçons
* Costes
* Eau d Italie
* Escentric Molecules
* Etat Libre d Orange
* Frapin, Perfume d Ampire
* Juliette Has a Gun
* Robert Piguet
* Mona di Orio
* Nassomatto 
* Nobile 1942
* Parfum de Rosine
* Kinski


* Many more - check out the website: KUPOVINA PO BRANDOVIMA


Guerlain Connoisseur of Colognes Massaniello Bogaert - meeting at Douglas The Hague


Douglas The Hague is one of the better perfume stores in the Netherlands. The assortment is slowly growing into more quality (even some Tom Fords & Armani exclusives) and besides,  the Utrecht store is probably getting a Chanel special department. Douglas The Hague has the amazing inside Guerlain exclusive store. And hanging around there I got intrigued by everything that has to do with this amazing perfume House.

Patricia and her colleagues from Douglas The Hague are very kind with samples, which gave me the opportunity to test Guerlain fragrances al year round. It lead to Guerlain fragrances in my collection since I could not resist Habit Rouge that I love to wear on fresh days in between summer and fall when the air is a bit crispy. The scent is at it's best when the French yachting season opens. The other, L'instant de Guerlain Pour Homme Extreme is my favorite fall fragrance for every day.


My favorite Guerlain fall fragrances
For summer I like my Guerlain - Cologne du Parfumeur; see my top 5 summer fragrances review.

So, just back from that beautiful (music, food & fragrances) week in Belgrade I was ready to meet perfume connoisseur Bogaert, who was going to test me in relation to the Guerlain perfumes & to what would fit me best at that moment. Patricia invited me for a tête-à-tête meeting with Guerlain's training manager for Benelux, Masaniello Bogaert. 

Massaniello Bogaert

Connoisseur Bogaert is a real gentleman who is used to advice VIP's personally. He has a lot of patience and knows a lot about perfumes. 

Bogaert started with a test based on my associations with images from all kinds of atmospheres. He asked about my cooking preferences, about ingredients, wines and grapes. He tested me on all kinds of raw, rough and smelling materials such as real white musk and ambergris. All sorts of tests with scents “thatlead him to a clear picture of my preferences”( from which for him of everything became clear). I e.g. don't like musk nor aldahyden, unless it is used in a very refined way.
A complex flavor, but clear. Preference for fresh, clear chypre with occasional need for warmth, but not purely Oriental and not spicy. Yet with elements there. And, in fact, need for a fresh new molecule; available in the near future. Exciting.

My body smell is according to him equal to the smell he shows me (that you see here). And thatt is so true, because I can smell myself. The bergamot and the bitter oranges II
I find delicious. Together with leather smells, and with a very light flowers, pepper and cardamom smell. And also the special pachouli, sandalwood and the always nice bit of  frankincense. Not heavy, as for me it fits.

And if I am in need of some warm feeling, it is a few drops on the wrists of Songe d'un Bois d'Ete that gives a deeper accent for the jasmine, the cedar, the saffron, the old and myrrh.

Yet there are moments as well in which there is room for Encens Mythique D'Orient in which the aldahyden for me works well combined with the neroli, the mosses, the saffron, a beautiful Persian rose, the musk and in this case (Yes Yes) genuine ambergris from (New Zealand) whales (that have matured for more than a year).

Femke, who joined me had a lively conversation with mr. Bogaert too. He was surprised that she could already smell so many different scents (she started with only smelling flowers, but now she know differences between roses, orange blossoms and others scents). That’s already really good, he says. 

Humans are able to distinguish between around 10.000 scents max. Noses are trained to be able to smell more than most people can. When kids start young to develop this art, they will become better and better at it. Continue with that Femke, he says. We need that kind of people. 
The last Guerlain went into banking. But the youngest generation is enthusiastic about perfumes. Femke gets a little shy when Bogaert presents her with some sweets with special scents. We continue taking about perfumes, pure soaps and opera since his family name is related to opera. (and I just came back from a performance by my soprano love in Belgrade Serbia).

It was nice and inspirational to meet with Massaniello Bogaert. Out of this meeting I decided to purchase 3 fragrances. I started with Arsene - Lupin Dandy which fit very well to my body chemistry. With a personal engraving we ended this beautiful day at Guerlain. 

Arsene - Lupin with Geurenland engraving
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One week after the meeting

That week I kept my twoo Guerlain hand fans in the garderobe.
One for Encens Mythique D'Orient and one (with) for Songe d'un Bois d'Ete. Both from the Orient line.
I happily bought Songe d'un Bois d'Été one week later again, which fits so well for the coming winter. And I need that warm drop sometimes. Encens Mythique D'Orient will follow later, very feminine, but as soon as the fan fragrance starts to go away I want to smell this ambergris depth again, someday..


Songe d'un Bois d'Ete